North Korea 2014
A small group of four aviation photographers departed Schiphol on 10 September 2014 for our second tour to this interesting country, joining a larger group. The vast majority of this year’s travel group to North Korea consisted of enthusiasts that primarily wanted to fly the various types in the Air Koryo fleet. Well, that target was easily met! New in this year’s itinerary was an optional pleasure flight in a Mi-17, probably everyone took that!
Report and photos; The happy traveller
A small group of four aviation photographers departed Schiphol on 10 September 2014 for our second tour to this interesting country, joining a larger group. The vast majority of this year’s travel group to North Korea consisted of enthusiasts that primarily wanted to fly the various types in the Air Koryo fleet. Well, that target was easily met! New in this year’s itinerary was an optional pleasure flight in a Mi-17, probably everyone took that!
After spending two and a half days in Beijing, visiting some museums including the awesome Xiaotangshan museum, the trip North Korean part of the trip started Friday evening 12 September in a North Korean restaurant in Beijing. The banquet dinner and live entertainment provided a nice backdrop for handing over our DPRK tourist cards and meeting your fellow travellers.
Next morning (Saturday 13 September) it was off to Beijing Capital airport for our Tu-204-100 flight to Pyongyang. The pilot took some steep turns and there was a bump somewhere along the way but he put us down safe and sound on Pyongyang’s 4km runway. The airport is under reconstruction. Work is underway to construct a new runway, a new terminal building and ramp. This meant that the whole Air Koryo fleet was lined-up on the taxiway. So even before touchdown, all but one of the fleet was seen. We passed customs and security and this was the first encounter with DPRK’s endeavours to prevent subversive and imperialistic thoughts from entering the country. Although you would expect that the camera-gear and binoculars would attract attention, think again. They were mainly interested in books. All western travel guides and magazines were confiscated. Customs kept these and handed them back upon departure by the way. In addition, a memory card count was performed, no idea why and no re-count on the way out either.
After a night in the Koryo tourist hotel, the first day (Sunday 14 September) was used to visit the DMZ. The South side was not manned, and it was more relaxed than imagined beforehand. We even took group photos with some of the guards and started back on our bumpy bus-ride along Korea’s empty concrete highways.
Monday 15 September would be the first flying day, one of many spent in the airport shuttle bus and the aforementioned taxiway. Our mount was an immaculate Il-18D, pure delight to behold and fly as well. It took us to Samjiyon, an operational fighter base in the northernmost part of Korea. Some glimpses of MiG-15s could be had but no flying activity. Because there was another group of tourists coming in with an An-24, we got that one taxiing in as well. Hilarious scenes followed of middle-aged men running around the ramp, climbing the aircraft staircase, lying on the ground et cetera. Anyway, we could basically do what we wanted except crossing the runway, or walk to the MiGs that were parked invisibly behind thick trees and undergrowth. One of the multiple highlights of the tour, each day contained at least one, was the Crater Lake and summit of Mount Peaktu on the Chinese border. Unfortunately, there was a power-outage, so the cable car did not run. This meant a hike all the way up in chilly but clear weather, 400 meters of elevation to conquer was a bit too much effort for some. But for those who did, the glorious weather provided awesome views.
Another day, more highlights (Tuesday 16 September). It started with a morning walk through Mount Peaktu’s secret camp with many painted walls applauding the socialist worker’s ethic. Next was the grand monument on the banks of lake Samji. Many sculptures of heroic battle and an immense 15 meter high statue of Kim Il Sung, which meant paying our respect by bowing. This procedure would re-occur on some other occasions during the trip. After this, we headed back to the airfield. Of course, a flight back in the beautiful Il-18D makes any day a good one. But it was not over yet. After witnessing a remarkable entry on the arrivals board, a flight from Inchon, South Korea, it was time for the An-148 pleasure flight. I did not take this and with some others, we were allowed to stay on the taxiway and take photos of its departure and arrival. This day, Tuesday 16th, will mostly be fixed in my memory for yet another stop on this packed day. We drove up to Korean People’s Army Museum of Weapons & Equipment, the first western group to visit this relatively new place. It consists of three buildings and a courtyard. I had seen the map at the entrance with rows of aircraft and although the inside exhibitions are very impressive indeed, of course I was eager to go outside. Luckily, the colonel guiding us had the same instinct, hurry up, much more to see than tanks, dioramas and scale models… At last, we boarded the small train that took us through the yard. No less than seventeen aircraft and helicopters are parked under sheds, exhibiting every type ever used. When I say every type, I mean every type. From the Yak-18A to the Su-25 and even MiG-29! Truly an amazing experience, no photography allowed unfortunately…. We whizzed by these, maybe next year walk by instead of using the train… Moreover, maybe allow photography? This excellent visit was concluded with a visit to the large gift shop, not the small one in hall 2, so do not linger there. In this shop, box sets of metal desk top models of the complete Air Koryo fleet could be purchased. And these were sold out to a thankful enthusiast group.
Wednesday (17 September), another day another highlight is truly the catch phrase of this trip. It started at our second home, Pyongyang airport. Two aircraft were at our disposal to fly to Sondok, a Tu-134 and a An-24. While landing at Sondok we passed rows of Y5 (An-2) transport/assault aircraft parked along the runway and further back in dispersals. Part of KPA’s defence strategy is the ability to deploy a huge amount of soldiers in one wave. Because the An-2 has a low radar profile and the Korean territory is mountainous, the idea is to be able to overrun any opponent. Many airfields in Korea are therefore packed with these sturdy planes that have the capability of launching unguided rockets as well and are equipped with periscopic sights and launch racks to that end. Of course, we could not take photographs of these. Our touring cars were actually parked almost against the Y5s on the civil ramp, so we could hardly avoid seeing them. Meanwhile, we took ample time to photograph the Tu-134 and An-24 basking in the sun on the apron. We enjoyed lunch in Hamhung city and travelled back to Sondok airport for our return flight to Pyongyang. There we enjoyed a city walk, a ride in the metro, and paid a visit to the foreign book store. This was followed by presented flowers to the statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jung Il ending yet another long day; although some of us went on to make a fool of themselves in the Karaoke bar at the hotel into the wee hours.
Thursday 18 September already, how time flies. We started at, surprise, Pyongyang airport. Pleasure flight in the Il-76, this one I took! I found this to be quite an experience. Because I did not take the Il-62 flight that followed, I remained on the taxiway to take photographs of its departure and arrival. The intervening time we passed with taking photographs of the Il-76 on the ramp. This super day continued with another flight to Sondok, this time the Tu-154 for both legs of this trip. Back in Pyongyang half of the group would get yet another flight, the ferry on two Mi-17s to our five-star luxury hotel in Hyangsan. I was on the flight back on Friday. Therefore, our part of the group was able to take photographs of the two helicopters leaving from the airport. After that, we boarded our bus to drive the 3.5 hours to Hyangsan. This was tiresome but also offered some insights in rural live in and around the river through the valley. Just before reaching the hotel, our touring cars encountered the two Mils parked on the road near the hotel, only some pylons and guards around them, no risk of traffic jams here! This was one of the first relaxation moments, some hours to shoot pool, take a swim, drink the local brew or ginseng liquor or try to defeat the Korean guides at Ping-Pong, no chance!
Our last full day (Friday 19 September) started with a visit to the Pohyon Buddhist temple complex. The nearby International Friendship Exhibition hall was next on the itinerary. Here all the gifts given by many countries to the DPRK are on display. This ranges from Dennis Rodman’s shirt to Khadafy’s robe and a glass Kalashnikov rifle donated by Putin. Rooms and rooms and more rooms filled with all kinds of stuff. You can sample a bit of the culture of the countries by the presents they give… Obviously, key interest for us was the Il-14 parked in a newly built annexe here. It was at Pyongyang airport before and has been repainted and fitted with a VIP interior. One of the highlights of the trip was still to come, a ride in a KPA Mi-17 back to Pyongyang! Just after take-off, the captain entered the cabin and mimicked two helicopters flying side-by-side with his hands, yeah sure we want some air-to-air shots like that! Again, a sunny day, and as we had started as the lead helicopter, the other one appeared on our five-o-clock low. It accelerated to fly along our starboard side, backlit, and fell back again, only to appear on our port side with the sun lighting it up against a green mountainous backdrop. It flew by assuming the lead position. Oh my word, how sweet! An added bonus was the passing of an operational KPA airbase packed with MiG-19s, alas, no photography allowed, but quite an impressive view. Still this day was not over yet. We visited the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum in Pyongyang. Luckily, we could take photographs of the outside exhibits that included some rare historic KPA aircraft, like the La-9 and Yak-9P. Another area has quite an assortment of US aircraft wrecks, nine in total not counting some remains of a helicopter. Inside the lead you through the various aspects of this 1950-1953 war, told from a PRK perspective. It ends in huge panoramic diorama enhanced by computer animations. The sitting area swivels around slowly in the middle of it while the story revolves in front of you. Another abundant evening dinner and our trip was nearly finished.
Next morning (Saturday 20 September), we flew back to Beijing, our heads filled with memories and our memory cards filled with photos and movies. Although some of the group stayed to enjoy another ten days of railway extravaganza. In any case, I would highly recommend this trip to anyone. The people are helpful and friendly, the cleanliness is unsurpassed in this yet unspoilt country. Furthermore, I know no other country that actually markets aviation group tours as one of the country´s highlights in the locally printed travel books.
