In May 2015 4Aviation travelled to Moscow with a group of 20 people. The aim of the tour was to attend the parade on 9 May over Moscow. The main reason for the trip was the 70th anniversary of the end of the Great Patriotic war and thus the victory over Nazi Germany, which is celebrated in Russia. Expectations were therefore high. Unfortunately, in the weeks before our travel we heard from multiple sources that the safety measures at and around airports had been tightened, and it was not considered prudent to visit operational airfields with a large group (and bus), as originally intended. A difficult and unpleasant choice had to be made, which, afterwards, proved to be the right one. Alternatively, it was decided to attend the dress rehearsal of the parade in the city of Moscow, and some more aircraft museums and airfields as a group. So we still had a great program which should guarantee many planes and photographs.
While the two British members flew to Moscow on their own, the remaining eighteen gathered in the early morning on Wednesday 6 May at the now familiar red and white blocks at Schiphol. Everyone was on time and we were able to quickly check in for our direct flight to Moscow. The flight to Moscow and arriving at Sheremetyevo went smoothly, also passing through customs and baggage retrieval. In the arrivals hall a cash machine was found that most gratefully used to replenish the stock of Roubles, you always better have some local money in your pocket! The bus that was to take us via the small naval museum to our hotel was a bit less smooth… because it was not to be found anywhere! After a few phone calls and a twenty minute wait our luxury coach ride showed up and we could go to our first destination. Well, of course it is Russia, and some things are different to we are used to or would like them to be.
The naval museum itself is not very interesting to us, or you have to be keen on submarines and would like to see from the inside, which is quite interesting in itself of course, but for the majority of the group the A-90 Orlyonok ekranoplan is the most interesting exhibit. The ekranoplan is a type that has never found a counterpart in the West: a plane especially made to fly at low altitude above the water, for example to transport landing troops to a beach at high speed. For some, an ekranoplan is therefore not a plane but rather a boat, however ekranoplans were able to also fly at higher altitudes, and that’s exactly what defines a plane. However, the endless discussion continues. Anyway, we were pleased with this ekranoplan which looked lovely in the sun and could photographed beautifully from multiple angles. After everyone had again gathered at the bus, we were able to head to our hotel. Despite quite a lot of traffic jams, and the first impressions of the beautiful city of Moscow richer, we reached the hotel in the afternoon. The hotel did not look spectacular from the outside, once inside it turned out to be a great hotel: friendly (English speaking!) reception, nice clean rooms, and a very good breakfast in the morning. A little later our two British colleagues arrived, so the group was complete and moments later with almost the entire group we could go looking for a restaurant. That was quickly found just across the street and was such a success, both in terms of food and also the atmosphere that we have made it our regular place for dining. Karaoke and dancing girls you have just to take for granted, that’s normal here …
The next morning, Thursday, 7 May 7, it had to happen: the dress rehearsal of the entire parade, including the flying part. One person decided to go to Kubinka airfield on his own while the remaining 19 took the subway in the morning to the spot on the south bank of the Moskva river where we hoped to get a nice view of the flying parade. The ultimate place, the Red Square, was closed for the general public (and remained closed throughout the week), but fortunately there were enough alternatives. Once positioned it quickly became busy with more (sometimes pushing and line cutting) spectators. After some time the parade finally began, heralded by a few heavy cannons. We did not see much of the parade on the ground, except for large groups of marching troops, tanks and other vehicles that came back from the Red Square, a bit depending on where one stood and what views they had on the other side of the riverbank. A little after eleven o’clock the rehearsal ended, which was inaugurated by… a Tu-160 Blackjack! Our choice to stand in this place turned out to be a good one because we had beautiful views and great photo opportunities for all that came flying by. And that was quite a bit, nearly 150 aircraft and helicopters passed in a few minutes for our lenses. One formation had not yet passed while the next was already arriving quickly. It was absolutely spectacular, both in terms of numbers, the different types, as well as sound, formations and perfect timing. After the last Frogfoots disappeared from view, everyone was still looking a little dazed, this was absolutely cool!
We did not have a lot of time to linger around, as the bus was to pick us up at the nearby subway station and bring us to our target for the afternoon: the huge Air Force Museum in Monino. An interpreter had been arranged beforehand for today and tomorrow, to smooth any problems that would arise. Of course, no problems were faced but it was surely handy to have an interpreter at hand. Besides that, talking with our guide gave a good insight in today’s Russia and Moscow in particular. Heavy traffic in Moscow made the one hour trip to the museum into a two-and-a-half hour trip, giving everybody the opportunity to get some sleep in the bus. Despite the heavy traffic, we made it to the Museum on the agreed time, just after their closure for lunch. Monino museum is one of the biggest and most beautiful museums in the world. Despite the somewhat crowded set up and fainted paint in some cases, the variety of unique (proto)types makes this museum a unique experience. Noticeable was that some types had disappeared from the museum (among them the A-20 Havoc and P-63 Kingcobra). If this had anything to do with the celebrations, or that the aircraft are under restoration was not clear. The hours planned for the museum were used to the maximum by most people, working hard to see and photograph everything. In the meanwhile we saw some aircraft, including an Il-22, departing from nearby Chkalovsky resulting in some extra aircraft being logged!
On the way back to the hotel we passed the small airfield Chernoye, home of one of the maintenance companies specializing in An-2, Mi-2 and Mi-8 maintenance. Our interpreter had contacted the company before our trip but never got any workable answer. Therefore, we decided to drop by and see what was possible! Our interpreter gave it its best, literally begging the secretary and the head of security, but unfortunately without success. Due to the holidays there was no one to show us around, at least that was the excuse they used. We did however receive permission to photograph the stored aircraft from outside the fence. Of course we would have rather walked on the base, but this was as good as it got today. Very nice was the MChS Belorussia (Belarussian) An-2 among the parked An-2s that could be photographed quite nicely. Our bus driver, at first a bit skeptical about our hobby, became more and more enthusiastic and helped out finding the best places to photograph and see the An-2s on the airfield. After this intermezzo we faced the horrific Moscow traffic again but we reached the hotel on schedule. Most of the group enjoyed diner in the same restaurant as yesterday, lighting up the place. At one time even the disco lights were turned on!
Friday 8 May was museum day. Not for everyone as four people decided to try their luck on their own near Vnukovo airbase (not knowing the unfortunate outcome of that day at that time yet). One of the group decided to head into town, so eventually 15 man plus interpreter headed out with the bus to see some museums. First in line was the Victory Park. As it is much more than just an aviation museum, we had some interesting things to see already while walking around before the museum opened at 10. Once the museum had opened we had to work quite hard to get the best pictures (e.g. without kids) as the museum filled up quickly. The final preparations for the festive day to come were in progress; some canons were spray painted in a new green layer (on a ladder, no masks, spraying into the wind… no problem at all in Russia) and all aircraft were cleaned. On the other side of the road a new area is being created, housing the more modern types. Unfortunately this area was not open for the general public yet. After the majority of the group had tried to take some pictures from the outside and were and the way back to the bus, a lady invited us into the area to take some decent shots. This unexpected chance was of course welcomed with open arms but due to the last minute deal not everyone in the group could be reached.
For a change, Moscow traffic was rather light and easy on this Friday morning (according to our interpreter many people had taken time off and left the city to avoid the expected crowds on Saturday). This meant we reached out second target ahead of schedule; the Vadim Zadorozhniy museum in the outskirts of Moscow. What once started out as a private collection of cars, motorcycles and aircraft had evolved in a full blown museum owned by one of the richest Russians. This location has everything to keep you busy for a few hours, especially if you like classic cars. Of course the number of aircraft is less than in Monino but the museum houses some nice types. At the entrance of the museum a Belgian F-84F Thunderstreak is displayed! Not something you would expect here!
Finally we went to the Central Armed Forces Museum. Most aircraft are displayed outside at this museum. In the front rows the aircraft are displayed quite nicely, but further to the back the aircraft are more packed together due to lack of space. Never knew that you can fit a Fulcrum, Flanker, Flagon, Fencer, Foxbat, Frogfoot and Delfin all together on a small grass field! Well, fit…photography of the aircraft is virtually impossible. Inside the museum there are more gems, ranging from weaponry to dioramas. Most impressive where the collection of German crosses kept as War trophies and the wreck of Francis Gary Powers’ U-2. Because the bus back to the hotel did not leave until 5, we had enough time to thoroughly enjoy the museum. In our soon to become favorite restaurant we greeted the “Vnukovo 4”. Unfortunately their day had not evolved as planned; after arriving near the airfield the noticed a lot of police present. Although they allowed them to walk to a spot near the base, the four where soon asked to come and were brought to the local police station by the same police! Only by the end of the afternoon they were let go, with all the apologies, but then all the aircraft had already come in… Luckily it all ended positively but it confirmed we took the right decision not to visit the operational air bases with a big bus of people.
There was a choice of two options on Saturday 9 May. We had reserved spots at the terrace roof of a luxury hotel near the Red Square, including breakfast, to view the parade. This spot was great but most aircraft were flying right over this spot, so not the best for photography. The other option was to photograph the aircraft on the ground from a different spot than Thursday. One good reason not to go back to the same spot of Thursday was the expected crowds, especially in the center of Moscow. Part of the group took this option and made an early departure to try their luck near Dinamo stadium. We also hoped to see some tanks and other vehicles here while preparing for the parade, but unfortunately we were already too late for that at 6.30 AM. The other group went to the hotel near the Red Square to enjoy an expensive but very luxurious Champagne breakfast. By the time the parade was about to start, big crowds had gathered near Dinamo stadium. Unfortunately the aircraft and helicopters were flying differently than anticipated resulting in disappointing photo possibilities. Some pictures were quite nice, but certainly not as good as expected by many. We had received information on beforehand that this would be “the” spot, confirmed by locals on the day. It was not meant to be, but luckily we had made a lot of good pictures on Thursday. The “terrace group” managed to get some nice pictures as well and in no time all aircraft had passed, including some new aircraft compared to Thursday. For them it was no surprise that all aircraft would come overhead.
In the afternoon there was some free time and everyone made his or her own decisions. Some visited the museum(s) again, the city, a monastery or headed for some more Wreck and Relics. The crowds were enormous in the city and the metro, making it very hard to travel fast. Only the outskirts of the city were easy to do. The Red Square unfortunately remained closed after the parade, causing sad faces on all the tourists and the 4Aviation group. Officials mentioned that the square would reopen on Sunday, but that proved to be wrong as well. Festivities were closed by a gigantic fireworks show, only to be described as “fantastic”, “impressive” and “Does it ever stop?”
Feeling like we had only just arrived, it was time to go home again! Luckily we had some time to spare on this Sunday 10 May before the bus would take us back to the airport. Many different plans were made, in small groups or alone to make the best of the remaining time. Some die-hards went hunting for a MiG-21 and a Mi-2. An L-29 was not found due to a renovation project but eventually lead to a visit to a local fairground and black market. The perfect place to score some last minute souvenirs!
Back in the hotel we said goodbye to two British participants who stayed a bit longer and would be traveling back on their own. In style, the bus arrived a bit late at the hotel but we had some spare time in the schedule so that was not a problem. Final challenge of the trip was to persuade the driver to make a round-trip around the airport. And so we succeeded! This resulted in some nice additions, including some FSB aircraft and a North Korean Il-62! The way back was as planned: checking in, having the passports checked and stamped, waiting, flying, walking miles and miles at Schiphol, checking in into the Netherlands and hoping that all bags made it back. And, saying goodbye of course. Even after a shorter tour it feels like you have been traveling together for weeks, in a good way!
Despite the small disappointments it absolutely was a great trip again. Not only the parade with the large number of participating aircraft (try and beat that in any other country), but also the different museums and of course the beautiful city itself, the subway, monuments, churches and other beautiful buildings. And the sunny weather of course, courtesy of Mr. Putin himself.
