South Korea & Taiwan (2023)
A group of six UK residents left London for South Korea in mid-October to visit the Seoul International Aerospace and Defense Exhibition (ADEX) and then spend a week in Taiwan to see all the beauty the local air force has to offer.
On Saturday 14 October, our small group of UK aviation enthusiasts gathered at London-Heathrow airport for our direct flight to Seoul courtesy of the excellent Korean Air.
The flight was long but uneventful and after meeting our final team member, also from the UK, we made a rapid collection of the rental car and were soon on our way to our hotel for three nights.
Once we had eaten our delicious local meal it was off to bed for a well-earned sleep as by now it was well into Sunday evening (15 October).
On Monday 16 October, we left for our first day at ADEX 2023 aiming to be outside the airbase to meet our other 4Aviation friends around 09.00. However the incredibly busy and slow Seoul traffic meant adding another 45 minutes to our target, but we were still in time to record our first aircraft of the tour, a Korean air force C-130 taking off. This was quickly followed by the local aerobatic display team, the Black Eagles, providing aerial theatre for us to capture. Next came a flypast of ten helicopters and mass formations of every jet aircraft type in the ROKAF. What a start to the trip.
From our superb position outside the fence, we made our way onto the showground thanks to the press passes requested by 4Aviation, and then around the hugely varied static display. Ranging from a Korean Navy P-3 to an air force Phantom, F-5, an F-35 and indigenous T-50 plus many others in between, everything was captured by our cameras in beautiful lighting conditions.
The USAF provided several airframes amongst which was a U-2, a well-worn A-10, a clean F-22 that also did an excellent flying display and a C-17, the latter pair from Hawaii.
With very few people in the crowd on this practice day, the images taken were truly wonderful, so much so that we had already planned to vary our routine tomorrow.
Once back at the hotel with the second 4 Aviation group in tow, European and British relations began to thaw over beer and food!
Starting the day early on Tuesday 17 October, we reached our favoured spot outside the air show in record time, with some judicious ducking and diving through Seoul traffic jams. Within minutes, we had seen two C-130s taking off and a surprise low-passing FA-50 which proved too fast for those of us still fumbling for our cameras.
As we knew the routine from yesterday, we were ready for the opening ceremony, capturing many fine images of the aircraft taking part. The formations included the FA-50, F-5, F-4, KF-21, E-7, F-16 including USAF airframes, T-50, A-330, F-35 and F-15. Helicopters were again represented by five KUH-1s and five MUH-1s.
The Black Eagles gave a sterling performance before the VIP audience inside the air base and once the whole show was over we decided to head for the opposite end of the runway in order to be in position for afternoon landings in perfect light.
The first approach was made by a C-130 and then three UH-60s flew directly overhead. A period of calm followed which allowed time for some dragonfly and spider photography before normal flying operations resumed with a KT-1 landing.
The presidential Boeing 737, four Casas CN235s and a C-130 all departed in hazy conditions but no arrivals happened until another Casa came in late in the day. Fortunately, the light was excellent. To further tempt us, three more Casas left but by then it was quiet, so we packed up and departed… to the sound of the presidential 747 landing behind us! We consoled ourselves with the fact that we would have had the wrong lenses on to fit it all in as it was so close.
Our original plan for Wednesday 18 October was adjusted, or ‘flexed’ to use the latest phrase, with agreement from the group as we had heard that F-4s and F-5s were flying from Suwon air base. First though, we drove north to the Korea War Memorial Museum and it’s fantastic collection of aircraft including a B-52, an S-2, a C-82 and -119, a P-51 and the second prototype of the KT-1; a truly excellent museum that merited more time than we had available.
Heading back south we found the correct photographers point on the approach to Suwon air base and waited our moment with some local spotters. However, it was not to be as it soon became obvious with their help that the only flying taking place was by the local ducks on the river.
With that knowledge, we set off on a wreck and relic hunt, finding an F-86 at one location and a DC-3, A330 cockpit section plus may other airframes at a nearby technical university.
As we were flying on to Taiwan in the evening we made our way to the airport, where check in went very smoothly. Our short flight and entry into Taiwan also went well, which meant that we made it to bed just before midnight for another well earned rest.
Once we had picked up our VW rental van after breakfast on Thursday 19 October, we drove for an hour south to Hsinchu air base, home of the ROCAF Mirage 2000s. Within minutes of our arrival we had had three pairs take-offs in-the-bag followed shortly after by two returning live-armed aircraft.
An hour later all of the six-ship aircraft returned in beautiful light although the local traffic proved to be a challenge as it sometimes got in the way of our cameras at vital moments. As it was now lunchtime, we went to celebrate our results at the coffee shop in town then captured an F-104 and F-5 displayed in small parks before moving back to our spot outside the base again.
Four Mirages took off within minutes of us arriving and were duly photographed when they returned. In between time, yet more had left for a sortie. These returned to base in the growing gloom and once they had all landed, we made for our amazing hotel for the evening, 90 minutes away in Taichung. Another successful day.
Friday 20 October began with a truly sumptuous buffet breakfast at our hotel before we set off for our location outside Ching Chuan Kang (CCK) air base.
Our luck held yet again as we saw eleven F-CK-1 Ching Kuos (one carrying a target towing pod), one F-16 and three airliners landing before 10.00, all in excellent light conditions that defied the weather forecast for the day.
After a short respite, a very helpful local spotter told us, in perfect English, of a yellow primer-painted F-16 on approach; this was the highlight of the morning as it performed several passes. Once the images were captured, it was a good opportunity for us to move on to take in a couple of nearby gate guards.
We then drove south to Chiayi air base hoping to see some operational F-16s. Surprisingly though, the first passes were made by a T-34 from Gangshan air base and a UH-60 from the Chiayi rescue flight.
Our patience finally paid off as the afternoon wave launched twelve F-16s. Within the hour they were beginning to return, all to be captured by our cameras. However, when we later counted the numbers, we realised that the first two were from an earlier wave and that we had actually seen 14; an impressive haul which was then topped off by a landing C-130.
By now, the weather conditions as predicted were getting worse, so we set off to our nearby hotel for the evening.
As we had seen so many aircraft yesterday, we decided that Saturday 21 October would be a day of wrecks and relics.
After fighting off a coach-load of local tourists to get to our breakfast in the hotel, we drove to a nearby F-5 and two Hueys, followed shortly by another F-5. The latter airframe was placed next to a gathering of Jeeps with boom-box speakers mounted on them, fortunately not yet turned up loud. A major highlight of this journey was the local man who had seven mobile phones mounted on the front of his scooter!
Next up came a technical school, but we were unsuccessful in gaining entry this year in spite of support from a very helpful lecturer who spoke excellent English.
After that set-back, we visited a rarely seen F-100, and F-104, then an easily accessible S-2, F-5 and UH-1. After a brief stop for a drink we moved on again, this time to attempt to find a new and undiscovered S-2 that we had heard about. However along the way, we drove past an unknown F-86 in pristine condition. Cue heavy van braking and yet more photos!
The S-2 proved to be where we thought and in mint condition as well. Yet more images were captured before we left for our last find of the day, another UH-1.
The local family-run burger joint close to the hotel provided our delicious meal for the evening.
On Sunday 22 October we decided that we would visit the less than catchily-named but otherwise excellent Aviation Exhibition Education Hall in Gangshan. This museum houses a wonderful collection of Taiwanese air force, army and navy aircraft as well as several airframes from Chinese defectors.
New to the main exhibits were a UH-60 and a two-seat F-CK-1 Ching Kuo. Other old favourites included a blue camouflaged HU-16, a Boeing 707, a T-28A, the unique XA-3 and an RF-101 Voodoo, several Starfighters and F-5s plus may others too numerous to list, all in great condition.
After a couple of hours of manic photography, our ice creams proved to be most welcome.
As we had time to spare today, we decided to drive south to Kaohsiung for more wreck and relic hunting. We managed to find a couple of F-5s and a two-seat Starfighter but other sites proved to be sadly inaccessible due to the weekend. In spite of this, we all felt that we had had yet another exciting day in this wonderful country especially as we had seen another ‘scooter special’; two large parrots being taken for a ride on the handle bars!
We were up and out early on Monday 23 October so that we could be in position outside Tainan air base. It was shocking to see that the small stone bridge, our usual spot, had been replaced by a huge concrete construction instead. Still, it didn’t affect our photography although a lot of the trees that provided cover from the harsh sun had gone. Such is progress even if the bridge only led to a muddy track!
Our first aircraft of the day was a Uni Air ATR-72, which was followed by the sound and smoky sight of more than sixteen Ching Kuos taking off, including a colour-bird. We lost count in all the excitement.
The first two to return landed on the far runway from our position, so we moved, only to be fooled by an E-2 landing behind us against the sun. Yet more Ching Kuo landings followed at nice regular intervals allowing for us to adjust our positions relatively easily.
Next came a Beech 1900 with a couple of touch and go approaches, at which point we decided to move to the opposite side of the runway in order to get the best light direction, as it turned out, in error as the aircraft came home early.
Two of the latest ROCAF aircraft, the T-5 Brave Eagle, did touch and goes before the morning wave ended with a pair of live-armed QRA aircraft returning to base.
After lunch, we tried our luck at the runway mid-point hoping for some Ching Kuo take-offs, but it was not to be for a couple of hours. Fortunately, a passing P-3 Orion, a T-34 and an F-16 kept us entertained with several passes. Suddenly at 15.00, the world erupted to the sound of aircraft jet engines. We managed to get our take-off shots before quickly repositioning to the approach end of the runway for the rest of the afternoon.
With twenty or more arrivals, all in wonderful light, this was certainly another highlight of the trip so far. With the images in the bag, we made for the hotel and yet another excellent evening meal.
Leaving the hotel early on Tuesday 24 October we made our way to Gangshan air base to be welcomed by six AT-3s landing. A quick exit of the van meant that we managed to photograph most of them.
Next came the usual mass-scramble of T-34s associated with this base, all of which were captured as they performed airfield circuits. We also spotted our second Kingfisher by the fish ponds, this time managing to take some reasonable photos.
With all the T-34s landed, it was the turn of the jet powered AT-3s to launch and circuit bash. Looking resplendent in their white, red and blue colour schemes in the morning sun against blue skies, we captured every one as they passed our lenses.
Knowing that flying is curtailed in the afternoon at Gangshan, we made our way to Pintung North air base in the hope of seeing P-3s and E-2s. However, it was not to be, so after a two hour wait we drove on to our next hotel, and a roof with a view; more of which tomorrow. The new tunnels short-cutting the twisting mountain road of old certainly aided the journey time.
Awakening early on Wednesday 25 October, we took a short walk up to the top deck of our hotel to witness a glorious sight; Taitung air base spread out in front of us. With many F-5s and T-5 Brave Eagles already on the ramp, we were ready for the first take-off at 07.10.
The classic F-5s were first off in pairs followed by more than a dozen of the newer Brave Eagles, virtually two thirds of the whole fleet. Breakfast arrived at 08.15 during a perfectly timed lull in the flying before we resumed again, this time with images of the returning aircraft.
A second wave followed including two alert Ching Kuos and the much-wanted tiger-striped F-5. Once this had left, we packed up the van and moved to the end of the runway for some alternative images. We weren’t to be disappointed as we captured the returning aircraft in lovely light.
Once it became clear that the morning flying had ended, we headed into the hills to see a Starfighter outside a monastery, an F-5 in a park area, and the Trislander at the local airport.
We were soon back at the base for the afternoon wave. We didn’t have long to wait as four F-5s took off in front of us as well as the by now common Brave Eagles. The short sortie times meant that they were photographed landing in quick order before we drove north to our hotel in Hualien.
Heavy rain meant that we all stayed in the hotel except for one brave, and hungry, soul from our party. Well done that man!
Our first visit of Thursday 26 October was to a nearby F-5 in a park. This was followed by a further two F-5s and a Starfighter at a technical school before we made our way to our favoured spot at the end of the Hualien air base runway, just in time to catch two landing F-16s.
A Beech 1900 followed soon afterwards to complete several circuits, but the oppressive heat and humidity made it quite difficult to sit and wait for the next action. Fortunately, F-16 landings kept us going. A surprise came later in the form of four Mirage 2000s with a sunlit landing and dark clouds behind, then a T-5 Brave Eagle that had followed us from Taitung.
A UH-60 from the locally based NASC detachment added some colour to our day as it passed overhead shortly before the skies darkened dramatically. As the weather looked like it was getting worse, we made for the car park in the infamous Hualien Carrefour store.
After a quick food shopping trip, we returned to our van and the sound of seven F-16s lined up in the last chance area at the end of the runway. A few brief photos followed before we again headed to the end of the runway to await their return.
Once this had happened and we were satisfied with our images, we left Hualien for Taipei calling at an F-104 along the way. Evening traffic was very heavy around the city which meant that we went straight to our hotel rather than have any more aviation related fun.
Friday 27 October was our last day in Taiwan, so we made the most of our opportunities in Taipei by visiting the observation deck at Songshan Airport (closed for repairs), the MTA train ride past the apron area (dirty windows and crowded) and the multi-storey car park (no view). Oh well, 10/10 for effort, 0/10 for photos!
Our usual position above the wholesale food market was much more fruitful, if you will excuse the pun. Within minutes of us arriving, we had taken pictures of an air force C-130, Fokker 50 and Beech 1900 as well as a King Air from the Civil Aviation Authority.
Airliners also kept us amused in between the military movements but the one aircraft we really wanted, the air force VIP Boeing 737, took a long time to return after its early morning take-off. Fortunately, it passed our lenses just before we had planned to leave.
Our next stop was at the F-5s and F-86 gate guards near the air force HQ before we returned out trusty van to the hire company. Check-in and security at the airport was extremely efficient and we were soon on our way to Seoul for one night.
Our taxis arrived on time and whisked us to Seoul airport in perfect time for check-in. Yet again, everything went smoothly and we were soon enjoying breakfast in the airport. Our long flight back to the UK was uneventful and landed exactly on time in the chilly wet weather. How would we cope after two weeks of sun and heat?
After saying our goodbyes, we made our way home having enjoyed an excellent trip to the Far East capturing many rare and unusually marked aircraft.
